Back to Kochi and on to Calicut…

Following our adventure up into the Western Ghats to the tea-flooded fields of Munnar, Soph and I continued our exploration of Kerala by going back to Kochi, and inevitably, due to the price of accommodation being much more agreeable to us both, back to Fort Kochi.

Looking online before we left Munnar, we found a place in Fort Kochi, conveniently placed in the midst of everything we needed, within walking distance from the ferry port, and even providing breakfast included in a room price of only Rs 450. Allan’s Inn was a little tricky to find, even with a map to show us the way, and no wonder, it was a family home tucked neatly away behind everything! The room, or I should really say the cave, was definitely no-frills, and if it weren’t for the optional DIY mosquito net in the cupboard, I am pretty sure the cave dwelling critters would have dined heartily on some prime British beef that night! The cave was in fact so bad that we had already searched out a replacement room for the following night (as we were to be loitering in Fort Kochi for 2 days before travelling north). If it wasn’t for the extremely friendly family we were staying with, and the promise of a traditional breakfast of idly and delicious coconut chutney (and it was delicious!), I might have even taken my grievances a bit further than just a moan to Soph, maybe all the way to Allan, whoever Allan is.

So, we continued our exploration of Fort Kochi (from a much nicer guesthouse called Fort Avenue Residency), even after stating that I felt no desire to return, for another full day and night, before departing Kochi again to head north up the Malabar coast to Calicut (or Kozhikode as it is now known as). So, this is where I currently find myself; sat in an overpriced hotel room in the centre of Calicut – because it receives very few tourists compared to the south of Kerala, the city does not offer the same diversity of backpacker budget accommodation options; or not that we could find anyway.

We have spent the afternoon roaming around the city, taking in as much as we can, as we have only the day and night here before hitting the road again and travelling into the mountain forests of Wayanad. There has been a few ‘major events’ so far today:

  1. I opened my bag to find a minor infestation of ants which had become somewhat partial to the bag of dirty washing – little fuckers!
  2. The washing situation was getting a bit desperate, as I was down to my final ‘clean’ t-shirt, so Soph and I set out hand washing – like the Indian washer women we have become – in a bucket in the bathroom. Let’s just say it didn’t go well, and I obtained an injury: a massive blister on my thumb! Pathetic I know… who knew that clothes were so dangerous.
  3. Whilst walking through the city a seemingly harmless looking older woman approached me. She didn’t appear to be a beggar, and I assumed that maybe she was a just bit of an opportunist and fancied her chances. I sympathetically passed off her clutching motions for money… so she hit me! Bitch…

Calicut seems like a nice city (apart from the odd rowdy beggar!), as far as cities go, however seeing as I have only been here for the afternoon and an evening, it is not a lot to base my conclusion on to be honest. We did find some absolutely cracking tandoori chicken for dinner, so that has added to my likening of the place!

Tomorrow we travel to a town called Kalpetta in the inland mountain region of Wayanad, which by all accounts is meant to be stunning. We shall have to wait and see what tomorrow brings!

We met some excitable kids who were desperate to have their photo taken
Another one of Kerala’s striking churches
This is SM (Street Market) Street
The busy Calicut roads
A nice view of the Tali Temple pond